VAC E-mail List Archive

The Vintage Airstream E-mail List

Archive Files


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [VACList] Rivets re:bucked tail diameter, etc



Bobby,

The bucked end of a rivet is called the rivet "tail".  Easy to remember as
the "head" of the rivet is on the opposite end; heads and tails.  I realize
that others may not know the 'lingo' that sheetmetal mechanics use but it's
useful to know the terms used in the industry just the same.  Once people
know what you are talking about -- heads or tailss -- you can help them out.

The "round headed rivets" are referred to as "universal heads", I don't know
of any round headed rivets; they are all round as I've never seen a square
rivet although someone might make one someday <VBG> -- a square peg in a
round hole maybe.  You never know! ;)

The marks on a rivet head tells you the hardness of the rivets and/or
whether or not they need to be cooked and then put on dry ice up to a
maximum amount of time before use.  The indentation mark is called a dimple,
then you have the raised head or the rivet that has a tit on top of the
rivet head and so on.  Plain rivets have no markings as they are the softest
grade if they are aluminum but they are also the weakest, and they are least
likely to cause you corrosion problems due to the amount of aluminum used
for that particular rivet.  And, the softer rivets also have less chance of
cracking the tails -- but they are easiest to screw up the head on due to
their inherent softness of the metal.

When you have bucked the rivet you have actually "upset" the metal in the
lingo of the industry.  If the "rivet set" used on the rivet gun to "shoot"
the rivet slips you will most likely get a "smiley" on the face of the rivet
which in the industry is undesirable.  The FAA says you can have so many
"smileys" per so many rivets in a predetermined area or length of work.
Personally I always tried to make all my work look "factory" -- I'd make it
so nice you could wear it for jewelry! ;)

On the subject of sheetmetal it should always be remembered also that you
NEVER leave a rough edge on ANY metal -- it will CUT you.  Most sheetmetal
"mechanics" have the scars to prove they have indeed cut their eye teeth and
know what they are talking about.  Ask me how I know. ;)  Any sheet products
need to have their edges "radiused" or "de-burred" to remove the knife edge
that will just end up cutting you or someone else.  We used to say that
"unless" you feel that you can personally run your tongue down the edge of
the metal and NOT be afraid of getting it sliced, you weren't finished with
a factory edge - yet.  And there should never be ANY sharp corners left on
the metal pieces either -- they might crack but they will also CUT you or
someone else down the road.

For anyone that is interested in knowing more about working with aluminum
metal please check out the Tech schools in your area.  These Tech Schools
may be part of the high school program or the local junior college.  I know
lots of schools have removed the "arts" and "shop" classes these days
because they just KNOW that everyone will be going to college and not
working a real job.  Not true and it makes me very upset to know that some
schools have removed not only the arts but also the shop classes, band,
chorus and last but not least physical education or gym class. Who's gonna
teach the "now fat" kids how to work with their hands if they happen to be
the unlucky ones who don't go to college?  I'm all for learning during a
lifetime of work; never stop learning or you will get stale.

Tom