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[VAC] Re: 40's Pipe Frame models



Picture a 4" diameter steel pipe, about 3/32" thickness, about 20' long. One end has a hitch coupler welded to it. Starting about 2' back from the hitch, there are 6' aluminum 'outriggers' or cross members about every two feet to the end of the pipe. These 'outriggers' are constructed of two pieces sheet aluminum (same as the skin) formed into a 'C' shape about six inches high and six feet or so long, then riveted back-to-back to make an 'I-beam' shape... ][.  A four inch diameter hole is cut into each of these outriggers which allows them to be slipped onto the pipe. When they're in final position, the steel pipe and aluminum outriggers are attached with flimsy little pieces of sheet metal bent into an 'L' shape, rivetted to the steel pipe with brass rivets (slows the bi-metal corrosion).
 
a 5/8" plywood subfloor is mounted to the outriggers, which stand about 3/4" above the pipe, requiring wooden 'spacers' every few feet along the pipe.
 
a 'U'-shaped channel of aluminum sheet metal is mounted around the edge of the subfloor, to which the monocoque (shell) is riveted.
 
this makes for a very lightweight trailer - suitable for towing behind the typically low-powered family cars of the immediate post WWII era at the then-typical 'highway' speeds of 40-50 mph (no interstates/freeways yet, ICYDK).
 
However, after a few years of bouncing along the highways and byways of this great land of ours, things can start to get ugly down there under the old asbestos tiles, particularly if there's been any floor rot or plywood de-lamination. Once the floor begins to flex, it's only a matter of time before the whole thing starts to come apart. One way to tell if there's a problem is to grab ahold of the hitch, and see if the pipe will 'rotate'.
 
In renovating his old pipe-frame trailer, Bud Cooper replaced the pipe/outriggers with a steel ladder-frame, and replaced the axle and spring suspension with a new style Henschen dura-torque axle/suspension. He left a length of the original pipe frame exposed at the rear, for appearance' sake.
 
I'm doing something similar - but using square-tube aluminum to construct a kind of 'buttressed-ladder-frame' which will be mounted to a new henschen axle. The original pipe will slide into the aluminum frame, secured with rubber bushings and steel bolts, so that once it's all together, it will appear to be completely original. 
 
Tuna