[VAC] Floor repair/replace question....and an update on where I am at on my shell off floor replacement.

["William Henshall" <willy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Here's my personal well learned tuppence worth (ie 2 cents)...I second what
Phil says in his message below...fundemental floor reconstruction is not to
be taken lightly.

I am right in the middle of a total floor replacement on our 58 18ft
Traveler. And what a royal pain in the b**t it has been.

You can either

1 Try and fit a 4ftx8ft wide piece (cut into sections to fit over the
chassis frame struts) in under the u channel edges (This is much easier said
than done. The aluminum outer panels are very easy to damage. One slip with
a hammer...)

2 Or you can patch and build with epoxy

3 Or you can bite the (silver) bullet and do it properly with the shell off
full floor replacement.

Most folk on this list are against epoxy...and I was swayed by this. I took
the view that it would be as tricky to patch the individual pieces by
slipping new sections in under the u-channel as discussed in previous
messages as it would be to pull the shell off and start over. That has
proved not to be necessarily true in my case. Read on :)

Since then I have researched the runny epoxy, drilling holes to create
anchors in the good wood with new added floor strengthening underneath
solution and there are many cases where this would work fine. Including mine
maybe.

Depends if you intend keeping your trailer for another 40 years or not!
Clearly, a new floor is just that, a completely new rot free floor. And
while you have the chassis out you can reweld/patch that too. And look at
the axles etc. If you do this it should out last most of us reading this! A
family heirloom, anyone?

Using epoxy in the amounts needed is tricky however as the off gas is
dangerous. Even well ventilated spots will make your head spin after 15
minutes. You have to build the patches up little by little, letting each one
dry before adding to it. The way to research this method is the marine
world. This technique is done for boat renovation all the time. And
structural strength is even more vital there. So it is possible.
http://www.rotdoctor.com/L/BoatL/Bqa.html is a good place to start looking
for info.

So here's what I did:-

Our floor was really bad in 4 places and I had to make the call of either
replacing it throughout or trying to patch it. the interior was all trash
any way and so it was an empty shell.

After talking to a lot of people I decided to replace it with a shell off
rebuild, a chassis overhaul and a new belly pan replacement.

This is a *big* job. do not be fooled! Once you start it, you are committed.
I remember looking at the shell lifted off sitting on saw horses, off and
the chassis pulled out and thinking, hmmm I hope this is going to go to
plan....it did not.

And still is not, as I am yet to finally get the shell back on as I type
this. For instance I used a different thickness aluminum for the replacement
belly pan, .040" as used on the newer trailers, and I realized too late that
the .017" extra thickness on the overlap all the way round would equal about
an inch extra diameter all the way round. So my shell is like a too tight
pair of pants after thanksgiving. I am right now in the middle of shimming
off a quarter inch round the back of the floor/frame to make it fit. A real
drag as the belly pan is all riveted on, the u-channel is bolted and screwed
down and both have to come off to do this.

The shell is pretty delicate when it is off the original floor and is a
little too heavy to be easily and accurately moved without 3 solid people.

A professional (like Inland RV) shop can do this in about 40 hours and
around 3500 bucks...however, if you are like me, and want or need to do it
yourself, you are reasonably handy and have a good assortment of tools; but
are doing this for the first time on your own without a regular helper like
me you can expect at least 150 to 200 hours of hard physical work.

I don't know if any of this info is of help in your specific case, but I
just wanted to chip in and share my recent experience.

Interestingly, I was asked if I would do a shell off new floor again, and I
would if I needed to on another trailer. It would be a lot easier second
time around. Learned a lot of the snags as we went along. I think I could do
it with a helper in about 70-80 hours. Although I would really check out the
epoxy restore option in conjunction with new wood panels in detail first.
Actually, scrub that, I would make sure I bought one with a totally solid
floor :))))

I have been working on a web site with detailed pictures of the whole
adventure and will try and get it live in the next few days. I'll post the
list with the url when I do.

Best to all

Will Henshall
1990 345LE Motorhome
1958 18ft Traveler (in pieces...)
San Francisco CA
WBCCI #8048