[VAC] Re: Table laminate surface renewal

["Pete Ryner" <pryner@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John,
I just rebuild my '68 and have done a '60.  It takes patience and luck.  I
found that I could get a knife between the laminate and the wood all the way
around the top and sides and started loosening the laminate.  Then I took a
wide putty knife and continued to pry the old laminate off.  Sometimes it
started to take some of the wood off and I had to stop, try to separate the
wood or cut the wood so it wouldn't continue ripping off.  Sometimes the
laminate broke and I had to get the knife and start again.  When all of the
old laminate was gone (or most) I sanded all of the wood and used some
strong putty to fill all of the wood voids.  Then sanded again for a good
base.  Important to have solid support for the laminate and 90 degree edges
so the laminate lays right where it matches.  Putting the new laminate on
was straight forward if you've done it before.  If not, practice on some
wood and get the feel of it.  Don't want to have to remove the new laminate
again if you mess something up - I speak from experience!  The latest table
I did had rounded corners and I had a terrible time getting the laminate to
bend around the corner.  Either I changed the radius when I cleaned up the
piece, or the factory had some special laminate.  I tried 4 times, heating a
little, a lot etc., but it always cracked either right away or after
cooling.  I ended up using real wood veneer.  You can tell the difference up
close, but not that noticeable.  The poly on the wood makes it look pretty
close.  One tip I can give is to use a high quality router bit with a ball
bearing guide.  Cheap bits will just screw up your new laminate.  You're
right, $300 is a lot for a table, but it is a fair amount of work.  Even if
you have to buy new tools, router, sander and bit etc., you will be well
under the cost.
Good luck
Pete