[VAC] Re: floors and water tank problems

["T. Byrd" <tbyrd@xxxxxxxxx>]

Oh Pete,

I know that feeling only too well. The previous owner of our Overlander
did a great job of hiding all of the damage. Note to everyone
considering purchase of a vintage Airstream: Take an ICE PICK with you,
and poke it into every square inch of the floors under the water tank,
water heater, shower/tub & toilet, door, and around the edges of the
entire floor. You may be surprised what is hiding there.

I'm just about finished with the epoxy/fiberglass repairs on my floor,
and I am amazed at the results. It has turned a spongy, delaminating
floor into a rock solid floor. The "new" floor is considerably firmer
than the good, existing wood.

Now, you've cut out the bad sections of the flooring, so you can't use
this technique. AND you didn't save it to use as a template? Nor did you
take pictures so you could reassemble it? Shame on you. ;) Seriously
though, I'm sorry to hear you're in this pickle. However you decide to
proceed with replacing it, you can get by with using ordinary, exterior
grade 3/4" plywood thoroughly treated with penetrating epoxy, not
fiberglass. Fiberglass should be used as a final laminate over a rotting
floor to reinforce it after the epoxy treatment. You can find the epoxy
at Fiberglass Coatings, http://www.fgci.com/.

If you have large tears in your belly pan, you should patch them with
aluminum sheet stock available at most hardware stores and sheet metal
suppliers. I may very well be wrong, but I don't think there's anything
special about the aluminum used for the belly skin. I cut pieces to
match the size of the holes, gooped them up well with sealer, and
riveted the patches to the skin with 1/8" pop-rivets. If you have small
tears and gaps in the skin, use a good sealer intended for Aluminum,
Vulkem comes to mind. I used a "50 year" polyurethane sealer intended
for windows and gutters available at Home Depot to seal the rips and
holes in my belly pan, and saved the Vulkem for sealing above the belly
pan.

I have no idea how to repair your black water tank, it's going to depend
on the material; fiberglass, metal, polyethylene, ABS, or whatever. The
bottom of my tank was badly broken as a result of a dump valve that was
too low and probably dragging. I'm still looking for a replacement black
water holding tank, and the only thing that I've come up with so far, is
a custom replacement tank from All-Rite at the tune of $450. (Anyone
know where to find an inexpensive quarter circle tank that will fit in
the rear corner?) The toilet flange should be available at any RV parts
place. You may be able to cut the metal ring, slide it over the flange
and bolt it to the floor or tank cover. Or, if the toilet flange is a
screw in flange, you may be able find a suitable replacement for the
entire thing.

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck with your project. Just take it
slowly, one step at a time. Explore all of your options before you grab
a saw, and ALWAYS take pictures so that you will remember how it fits
together.

--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander