[VAC] Re: '58 Overlander Electric Brake Wiring

["T. Byrd" <tbyrd@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hey Scott, 

Thanks for the reply!

At some point in time after 1958, somebody rewired the coach with a 7
pin Bargman plug. Even though the plug had the colors clearly marked,
they chose to disregard them. Luckily I was able to salvage the old plug
from the trash before it was taken away, and it proved to provide a bit
of insight. Anyway, that's a long story, suffice it to say, some people
should not do their own wiring. ;)

I bought a digital multimeter from Radio Shack. Using that, and the old
plug, I was able to make some sense out of the situation. It seems that
all of the running lights, turn/stop lights, and the license plate light
are wired with plain black 18 gauge wire. As I said in my prior post,
that left the two wires in the red sheath, one yellow, and one green.
The backing plates do have wires running into them, not hydraulic lines,
so I knew I had electric brakes. Taking a chance, I wired up a ground
connection to one of the suspected brake wires (the yellow one, and the
location corresponding to the ground pin on the old plug, wired with
green wire in the old harness, of course) and while my girlfriend
listened at each wheel, hit the remaining wire with the charge line. I
got a large blueish-green spark off the wire, and she heard distinct
clicks at each hub. It seems whoever wired this thing ran the one and
only ground from the harness to the brakes. I guess that explains the
two wires bolted into the A-frame, one going to the old, metal plug
case, the other with an alligator clip on the end.

I put a new 10 gauge wire into the frame, and used a 3-way butt
connector to connect the harness and brake grounds to that. Tada! After
a few minor ground issues with the rusted tail lights, we have the
wiring completely working tonight!! When I plug the harness in, I get a
continuity LED on the Ultima 2020 brake controller, and hitting the
brakes registers 11.9 to 12.1 amperes on the brake controller display. I
have new Dexter rims with tires coming Monday after next to replace the
split rims, and I didn't want to mess with pulling the hubs apart until
then.

As for the 12V system. Nope, I'm pretty sure I don't have ANY 12V. I
still haven't found a battery, or any evidence of one ever being
installed. With the exception of a new toilet, maybe a new water tank, a
new water heater, and soft goods, this trailer is completely original.
It still has the original 2 prong, bakelite Bargman receptacle on the
outside leading to a fuse box on the opposite, interior side. All of the
light fixtures, with original glass covers and asbestos shades, are 120V
to my knowledge. They have standard screw sockets, with a white and
black pair of solid copper wires running to them. Do 12V lights use
standard light sockets? There are no 12V "cigarette lighter" sockets
anywhere in the coach, just two prong receptacles.

The only pressurization facility for the water system is a valve stem
mounted on the exterior of the water tank inlet. I even have what is
supposed to be the original 50's vintage bicycle pump used to pressurize
the system. For some reason, they wired the charge line to the 120V
system. Am I sure this is a 120V wire? I'm not sure of much with regard
to the wiring in this coach, but, it is solid strand copper, one black,
one white, twisted together with an old style wire nut, and the charge
line WAS connected to this pair. I haven't traced it out yet. While the
person from whom I purchased the coach did have it plugged in, with the
lights and his computer working inside of it, I haven't plugged it into
an AC source since bringing it home. We'll see what blows up next. ;)

I suspect that while boondocking in those days, they used the propane
lamp, air pressurized water system, and a gopher hole.

Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander