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In the absence of any available guidelines or
instructions, I will detail below the process I used to remove the Bowen 10 gal
water heater from my ' 68 Tradewind. Based on the floorplans pictured in the '
68 Owner's Manual, I believe the process would be similar for other ' 68 models.
In Part 2 to follow, I will describe the installation of an Atwood 6 gal
replacement water heater.
I began the process by taking out the 25 screws
attaching the three piece textured access door on the rear curb side of the
exterior skin. These screws were rusty and had stained the aluminum cover of the
access door and its flange which will require cleaning if the original cover is
to be modified for the new Atwood and reused. With the cover off, the rusted
burner, gas control valve, thermocouple, etc. was obvious.(This water heater was long past its useful service life.) The
flange/frame to which the three piece cover was attached was "glued" in
with what appeared to be old Vulkem. Carefully inserting a putty knife between
the trailer skin and the water heater frame, I was able to loosen and separate
the mounting frame from the trailer skin.
Testing to see what these steps had accomplished, a strong tug on the water
heater itself revealer that it was still solidly
attached. The next step was to look at the back of the water heater for any
anchors or attachments from inside the trailer.
The only visual access to the back of the Bowen
water heater, including the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet is
through the cabinet/access door under the bathroom lavatory -- perhaps
an easy process for a contortionist. One metal tab attached to the
right rear of the water heater and screwed to the floor was visible. That
screw was removed and the flair fittings on the water lines to the heater
were unscrewed and separated. No other attaching points could be
seen from under the lavatory.
Back outside, the LPG gas line was removed from the
gas control valve on the heater and from under the trailer at the shut off
valve. This 26" length of copper tube which goes through the trailer floor and
the bottom pan of the WH was completely removed. It was necessary to cut it in
two because of its shape and a new piece of tubing with flair fittings will be
required. As far as could be seen, the water heater should now be free to slide
out.
A strong tug on the heater from the outside
revealed that it was still solidly attached to the trailer. Back with the
putty knife and more loosening of the heater flange which was still "glued" in
with Vulcem. Finally separated, I was able to slide the water heat out about 3-4
inches but no further. Try as I might it wouldn't come out further. Back inside
and under the lavatory looking for the problem.
Ah, so. Problem revealed. Because the tank of
the water heater is wider than the mounting flange, an aluminum spacer had been
attached to the inside skin with pop rivets to close the gap. This spacer must
have been installed after the water heater was in place but before the bathroom
end cap was installed. There is no access to drill out the pop rivets without
removing the bathroom end cap. Pass. On to plan B.
When all else fails, resort to brute force and
awkwardness.
How to force the heater out past the aluminum
spacer which can't be reached to remove? I attached one end of my "come-a-long"
to the heater drain valve and the other end to a steel rod driven in the ground
a suitable distance away. Ratcheting away, the heater moved out several more
inches but again stuck. Examining the opening in the trailer skin I could see
that the upper corners of the aluminum spacer were catching on the top of the
heater. A diagonal snip with tin snips freed the corners. More ratcheting
with the come-a-long and the water heater was out.
Success.
Since I hope to use the original access door/cover
on the new Atwood replacement heater, the next step was to separate the door
flange from the heater flange. These two pieces were attached with heavy staples
which were pried out. There are two reasons for using the original door cover.
First, to maintain the original appearance and second because Atwood no longer
has available the stainless steel access door used on later model Airstreams.
Instead, a painted white steel door is supplied with new Atwood heaters. IMHO, a
white pointed door will look out of place with my later to be polished ' 68
Tradewind.
The next step will be to install the new Atwood heater. The trials and
tribulations of that process will be described in a
subsequent report.
Jim Greene
(Boy Wonder)
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