[VAC] Re: tail sag

["Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <joytbrew@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Nick,

This is much more than you asked for, so feel free to hit the delete
function at any time.

I think it's strange that you have frame separation and the floor is sound?

My Safari had substantial floor rot in several areas.  Across the rear and
up to the wheel well cover on the street side (water heater included).
Under the water pump, and about 3 feet in both directions.  Under the curb
side front window at the end of the banana curve.  And both sides of the
entry door.  Whew, it's much more to deal with than to talk about!  The
"under the front trim strip" is a maintenance area that will prevent future
floor rot if it's taken care of.  The construction of the joints wicks water
to the floor just as in the rear.

I got inside the monocoque to work through the inverted "U" aluminum channel
by taking a strip of the inner skin about 6" wide.  With the strip removed,
I could remove and replace fasteners as needed.  I needed full access to the
"under the floor" and dropped the belly pan, holding tank housing, etc.  The
fasteners  across the rear
involve three types: sheet metal screws, 1/4-20 bolts, and 1/4
inch rivets.  The bolts hold the plywood floor to the "U" channel cross
frame member.  The sheet metal screws fasten the aluminum "U" channel to the
plywood.  The 1/4 inch rivets have a 3/4 inch washer inside the aluminum "U"
channel and pinch the monocoque through the floor to the frame.  If there's
frame separation, the rivets are compromised by corrosion.  I don't believe
it's possible to remove the rivets for replacement unless the floor is
removed.  Rather, drill new 1/4 inch holes and refasten the assembly with
bolts.

It is possible that the rear cross frame member has broken loose from the
main frame rails.  As an alternative to re-welding the cross frame, bolts
through the aluminum "U" and into the main frame rail would secure the  rear
to the frame.  A lot of eggs in a very small basket!

I used a backing strip of aluminum about 1-1/2 inch wide to restore the
inner skin except for the section under the rear convenience hatch.  If I
were to do the job again, I'd purchase new inner skin material and cut it
about 8" wide and make a lap joint.  This would simplify future repair and
would be much stronger than using a backing strip.  Removing the inner
panels seemed like an un-necessary and complicated procedure.  I forced the
insulation up and inside the monocoque.  When I replaced the cut out strip,
I used new sections of insulation.

Connecting the PEX to the faucets is pretty simple, but it sometimes takes a
couple of fittings to match the pipe  to the 1/2 inch PEX.  For the galley
sink, I went from 1/2 inch PEX to 1/2 inch pipe.  Then from 1/2 inch pipe to
3/8 tube compression.  This was the only configuration my local plumbing
supplier could come with.  It allows the faucet to be replaced in the future
without cutting the PEX rings out.

The rear bathroom is a bit different as I chose to leave most of the copper
plumbing and cut the 3/8 inch pipe about 1/2 way to the shower/tub mixing
valve.  In this case, I used 1/2 inch male sweat to 1/2 inch PEX.  It took a
bit of work with a rotary file to enlarge the interior of the BRASS PEX so
it would slip over the 3/8 inch pipe.  This done, I used lead free solder to
join the parts.  This won't work with copper fittings.   I plan to wrap the
copper with insulation to help prevent freeze damage.

I chose to replace the drain valves with 1/2 inch ball valves with PEX
connections.  Expensive, but small and simple operation.  Much more
difficult to fit in the small space than the original sweat plumbing.

I left the shore plumbing copper through the pressure reducer and the
backflow valve.  It was simple to remove the 1/2 inch sweat fittings and
replace them with PEX sweat to PEX unions.

The water pump is proving very difficult to restore to the original location
using PEX.  I've given a lot of thought to moving the pump from the
street-front cubby hole to under the sink.  It would make maintenance much
easier than the original location.  Just that it reduces storage space under
the sink if storage space is a necessity.

The number of ells and tees I've used are numerous.  The PEX can be bent and
held with clips to the floor and eliminate many of the fittings I used.
Each fitting is a potential freeze point so I was very careful to assure
that each line would drain completely when tongue jack is raised and
lowered.  Keep in mind that the PEX tubing an expand many times it's
diameter without rupture from freezing.  However, the compression rings are
a different story.  A freeze can distort the rings and result in a leak.
Repair will require recrimping the rings.  As you might guess, this would
require removal of much of the interior to make repair.  I bought the crimp
tool for my tool box; however, I'm unsure how useful it will be because
access won't be feasible in a travel situation.

Another reminder is that PEX cannot tolerate high levels of chlorine
sanitizers.  It's not practical to use a chlorine shock to sanitize the
plumbing.

Quest couplings/fittings are another option; however, the joints are prone
to breakage and  may need tightening over time.  I used "Quest" to join the
water heater to the PEX - to allow removal/maintenance, etc. for the water
heater.  Keep in mind that "Quest" cannot be used directly into the 1/2 inch
pipe openings of the water heater.  There's a special brass/quest fitting
available for this purpose.

The electrical main box had a second slot for a breaker and I chose to
install a 15 amp breaker for the water heater and run BX cable to the water
heater.  It was necessary to reverse the typical electrical connection
through the breaker.  Meaning that the hot line out of the main enters the
bottom of the water heater breaker and exits the top.  This is necessary to
keep the load through the 30 ampere main.
I've had thoughts of replacing the 30 ampere with a GFCI; however, I haven't
checked availability to date.  Both the GFCI and surge protector breakers
are available for Murray, but I don't know about old GE systems.  Before I
replace the interior, I'll make a decision about replacing the existing
breakers.  May need advice from the list about the practicability for shore
power hookups if I change these breakers.

For various complications, I've not made much progress with my restoration
over the past month or so.  I did restore the tail/stop/backup lights in the
bezels.  It's critical that the light bases be sealed against water seepage.
I thought about a Vulkem bead, but Vulkem is nearly impossible to remove.
Access shouldn't be a problem if the gaskets are maintained properly.  Just
another decision that makes or breaks a future maintenance task.

Your unit may have spent most of it's life in a dry climate where floor rot
might not be a problem.  However, if you move the A/S to a damp climate, you
would want to remove the exterior trim strip around the rear of the unit and
assure that the seam between the monocoque, the bumper hatch stop plate and
the outer skin are weather proofed!  Water running in the bezels and wicking
through the seams damages the integrity of the rear fasteners.  This is why
this dissertation has come full circle and begs the question: Why is there
frame separation without floor damage?

As a pre-Beatrice A/S, quality assembly shouldn't be a concern as it is in
my '69 Safari.

Both critique and advice are available off-list at joytbrew@patriot.net .
As are pictures and drawings of various aspects of the restoration.  Then,
maybe you've had enough?

                                                '69 Safari, Joy