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[VAC] Re: Water & electric



Wayne:

   I have the galvanized water tank up front "behind" the sofa, but it is not 
pressurized.  The only outlet from this tank is a hand pump at the kitchen 
sink.  All other water for the kitchen sink, the 6 gallon 120 v. electric hot 
water heater, toilet and shower originates from the pressurized "City" water 
hose connection.  The water system could be replumbed to be pressurized (or 
on demand) with a 12 volt pump and routed to all water uses.  The electric 
hot water heater could be replaced with a propane fired PrecisionTemp 
tankless (on demand) hot water heater.  

  The grey water outlet from the kitchen sink/shower and the black water 
outlet from the toilet are both outside the street side trailer frame rail, 
making it difficult to install holding tanks between the frame rails.  The 
shower base would have to be removed and rotated 90 degrees to get the grey 
water to drain into a holding tank.  The black water could just be drained 
into a portable blue waste water tank.   Or the toilet could be raised and a 
small holding tank installed beneath it, or I could simply use a 
porta-pottie.     

    The original refrigerator has been replaced by a 1970s or thereabouts 
gas/electic model that does not appears to operate on ice, but the propane 
would be fine for dry camping.  

   The major hurdle is how to wire the trailer to operate on 12 volts when 
dry camping.  The interior is in good shape, and I haven't figured out how to 
route new 12 volt wiring throughout the trailer for the solar panel-powered 
12 volt electrical system without destroying the interior or disassembling 
the trailer.  All 120 volt outlets and lights are presently on one single 
circuit.  I want to use more efficient lights than the 12 volt screw-in light 
bulbs available at RV dealers.  Any ideas?

Fred