Re: [VAC] Marker light grounding. New idea.

["Dr. Gerald N. Johnson" <geraldj@xxxxxxxx>]

I was kind of figuring on soldering the wire pigtail to the brass strap
that goes over to the mounting screw. I like my latest idea best.

The platic boss is a little over 3/8" diameter. I removed its center
down to the brass strap with a 3/8" diameter end mill. The brass springs
out of the way so that could be done just as well with a 3/8" drill bit
so long as the brass could spring away from the drill. Then I found the
depth of the hole (on the model 234) is exactly the same thickness as
two standard 8-32 hex nuts. I dug up some bronze internal star type
lockwashers which I'll put on for trial but I'll find some stainless
steel soon. I happen to have some 8-32 x 1" aluminum screw with nuts.
Soon as its light and I have some fresh plumber's putty, I'll go try one
on the Caravel. I'll coat one lockwasher with aluminum wire connector
grease, then I'll put that lock washer on the screw and put the screw
through the rivet hole from the inside (may have to drill out the hole a
little) working through that 1-1/2" hole under the light. I'll run a
pair of nuts down against the shell from the outside, and lock that
screw to the shell. Then I'll make sure the other mounting hole is right
for a #8 x 3/4 self tapping screw, fill up the back of the light with
plumber's putty, fish the wire lead through (has a spade lug connector
on it) the base of the light, and slide the bared ground connector down
against the double nuts. Then I'll install another aluminum connection
greased lockwasher and a nut against that brass strap and tighten it
down. With the self tapping screw on the other side, I'll have a
connection significantly better than before and probably better than the
pigtail.

The trouble with the soldered wire is that solder wicks into the wire
past the end of the stripped insulation and makes it stiff so it breakes
from vibration. Another problem is that the connection out in the
weather with solder and brass and copper ages poorly with dissimilar
metals and thus electrolysis when wet to destroy the solder connection.
A pressure connection preserved with grease like the aluminum conductor
grease should last significantly longer.

Now if all the marker lights have that large hole, I'm in... If not,
I'll make an aluminum spacer the thickness of two nuts and use the self
tapping stainless steel screws I bought Saturday with stainless steel
lockwashers (which I'll order tomorrow) and aluminum connection grease
on the threads and at the lockwasher.