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Silver Streak Digest V1 #56


Silver Streak Digest    Thursday, February 26 2004    Volume 01 : Number 056




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Topics in Today's Digest:

Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Overhead microwave; door hinges
[SilverStreak] 66 Streamline Duke Holding Tank Removal

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Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 10:07:58 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Overhead microwave; door hinges

My microwave is located by its round front feet sitting in two wood
sockets that are screwed to the bottom of the cabinet. The MW is not
fastened down. It can be just lifted out.

The hinges crack from not being lubricated. The pin seizes and bends the
hinge barrels back and forth until they crack and finally break off.
What make are the hinges?
Al

> At 05:07 PM 2/24/04, you wrote:
> >I am new to the list and my reference is a 1983 3411 Supreme 
> (35'):
> >
> >A couple of winters ago I removed the Sharp microwave that was 
> original
> >equipment installed in the cabinet over the stove top and oven.  
> The old 
> >Sharp was
> >tall and square compared to the new ones available now.  I 
> purchased a
> >commercial Emerson from Target.  The new unit, being shorter and 
> deeper 
> >when it was
> >seated, barely fit.  I did have to move the 110 volt duplex toward 
> the 
> >rear of
> >the trailer and down.  Otherwise, the connection  would have 
> interfered with
> >the top rear corner of the microwave.  I recommend building a cleat 
> to 
> >hold the
> >unit down on top as it seems to me the mounting screws from the 
> bottom up are
> >not enough to keep it in the cabinet on rough interstates.
> >
> >I need a reliable source for plain and creased sheet anodized 
> aluminum.  Are
> >there any parts available out there?  My dealer friend has a number 
> of plug
> >door hinges.  No main door hinges.
> >
> >Gus Gustafson

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Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 21:46:50 -0800 (PST)
From: <erandy52@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [SilverStreak] 66 Streamline Duke Holding Tank Removal

   Greetings from Placerville.
   After several days figuring out how the trailer
was assembled I started with the last rivet first,
proceeded from the front to the rear and of course
the potty tank was the last after removal of the
tub enclosure and rear sink. Needless to say you
must identify absolutely every part with a felt 
pen and do not destroy anything taking it apart.
That being said, getting down to potty business,
the cast iron toilet flange must be removed by
heating quite hot with a torch to melt the plastic
threads of the tank flange some, then unscrew with
a homemade spanner wrench. Be darn sure the tank is
really flushed out good and vent with a free flow
air hose for 10 minutes to rid it of sewer gas
before working with a flame. You may cut the 3 inch
discharge close to the flange because the tank
probably leaks or soon will, I pulled my hair out
trying to figure out a fix for that problem and
decided to fiberglass over the hole with fiberglass
mat on both sides of the tank wall and then re-cut
the discharge hole to a smaller size to accept a
rubber grommet around a 3 inch pipe. Future problems
may be fixed without tank removal. It may be a good
idea to pressure test the sewer lines, the elbows
and joints are made of grey plastic. That is the
type they recalled because it cracks and leaks. 
                    Randy Kelley
                     Placerville              

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End of Silver Streak Digest V1 #56
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