The Silver Streak E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
Silver Streak Digest V1 #40
Silver Streak Digest Friday, January 16 2004 Volume 01 : Number 040
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Topics in Today's Digest:
[SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Re: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 - Electric problems
Re: [SilverStreak] 19' Silver Streak year model?
[SilverStreak] ss polishing
[SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 -RV storage
[SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
RE: [SilverStreak] Electronic Jack
Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
[SilverStreak] Entry door hinges....
[SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Re: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
Re: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
Re: [SilverStreak] Electronic Jack
[SilverStreak] 2004 rally
[SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39 - gold anodized alu
Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak lettering
Re: [SilverStreak] Entry door hinges....
Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:17:49 -0600
From: Travis Pitts <travisP@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Hi Folks,
I have all the paperwork done on my '68 19Ft. SS and am ready to start work
on her. Upon a closer inspection of where the insignias were it appears
that they were a metal plaques that were riveted to the shell. Actually it
appears to be 2 plaques. One with the Silver Streak logo and a smaller oval
shaped one below it. I think the oval one is where the model name was. I
have seen some photos of a 1958 SS 19 footer with the logos intact and the
model in '58 was "Jet". Can anyone tell me if all 19' SS's were Jets? Also
I have some rust streaks from some of the brackets, tail lights, etc. What
is the best way to get the rust streaks off of anodized aluminum without
harming the anodized finish. I also have a window type air conditioner
mounted in the rear. I am considering removing it and re-installing a
window there and putting a roof mount AC where the front vent/skylight is
located. Would this be too much weight on the roof? One other thing and
I'll quit typing and get to restoring, this SS has tandem axles under it.
What is the proper tongue weight and height for stable towing? I have
enjoyed everyone's comments and will try to find a place to post some
photos of the project as it progresses.
CUL
Travis
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:38:38 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
I am not totally familiar with the Silver Streak insignias, but thought that
they were all decals. If not, casting new ones is an option.
Some of the Streamline trailer insignias were decals, but earlier ones from
the 60's were plastic. In the case of my trailer, they had broken and were
no longer intact. I tried for some time to have new ones cast, but the
firms I approached had quite a bit of difficulty casting new ones, as the
aluminum kept breaking on them.
I did finally find a company here in Houston that was able to cast intact
replicas for me, and they have worked out quite well. I did have to
undercoat the aluminum before applying a finish coat of paint, as the cast
aluminum does outgas. For the final coat, I went to a model shop, and used
the paint that for model cars. I had been told by others that regular spray
paint doesn't last, but the model shop paint seems to be holding up.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Pitts" <travisP@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 7:17 AM
Subject: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
> Hi Folks,
> I have all the paperwork done on my '68 19Ft. SS and am ready to start
work
> on her. Upon a closer inspection of where the insignias were it appears
> that they were a metal plaques that were riveted to the shell. Actually it
> appears to be 2 plaques. One with the Silver Streak logo and a smaller
oval
> shaped one below it. I think the oval one is where the model name was. I
> have seen some photos of a 1958 SS 19 footer with the logos intact and
the
> model in '58 was "Jet". Can anyone tell me if all 19' SS's were Jets? Also
> I have some rust streaks from some of the brackets, tail lights, etc. What
> is the best way to get the rust streaks off of anodized aluminum without
> harming the anodized finish. I also have a window type air conditioner
> mounted in the rear. I am considering removing it and re-installing a
> window there and putting a roof mount AC where the front vent/skylight is
> located. Would this be too much weight on the roof? One other thing and
> I'll quit typing and get to restoring, this SS has tandem axles under it.
> What is the proper tongue weight and height for stable towing? I have
> enjoyed everyone's comments and will try to find a place to post some
> photos of the project as it progresses.
>
> CUL
>
> Travis
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:49:54 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 - Electric problems
I keep both my '65 Streamline trailer and '65 Streamline Motorhome in
outdoor storage. No doubt that they can leak, but leakage should not be a
problem as long as they are in use, and are being monitored. No different
than other types of maintenance required for a trailer. Just like tires
which need to be replaced when they age.
I think that the term "go down" is a little extreme. All you really have is
another maintence item to deal with.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 1:27 AM
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 - Electric problems
> I hope you get a shed roof over your trailer, as they all go down if
> continually exposed to the elements. Water always seems to get in
> somewhere. The lap seams in the skin are not likely to leak unless dented
> because sealer is between the sheets. Make sure the roof vents' flanges
> are caulked, which includes the vent taken up by the A/C.
> We have a dehumidifier that helps keep the interior dry but of course the
> space between the inner and outer skins is open to the outside and does
> not get dehumidified. A dry indoor storage is the best place to keep a
> trailer or MH.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 23:02:22 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] 19' Silver Streak year model?
The serial number may tell the year. My '79 has "79" in the serial
number. The title should give the year but titles are not reliable. The
year on the title might be the year the trailer was first sold.
I take it you have the molded plastic "Silver Streak" nameplates? Mine
has the adhesive type.
Al
I believe it to be a 1968 by the "ok to sell in California" medal on the
rear - it starts with 68, but, I cannot find anything on this beauty to
tell me the model ! I am pretty excited about it, I will be getting the
title tomorrow and maybe it will indicate what model it is. In the mean
time maybe someone can give me a hint. Also, since the insignias are
missing ( maybe somebody is counterfeiting SS's) are there any
replacements available?
>
> Thanks,
> Travis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:24:53 -0600
From: "Jim and Dorothy Dupree" <dottiedup@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [SilverStreak] ss polishing
Hey Gang:
I have been reading and observing all the comments about removing the
anodizing on the SS rigs.Having owned a "76" airstream for 12 years, dealing
with the chipping, pealing and dull clear coat, I have been so pleased with my
Mod. 3411 Supreme 1985 Silver Streak which I have had 4 years, I would never
even consider removing the anodizing.
To see natural aluminum, in any construction use is very unusual. Building,
frames, window frames, boat accessories etc. are all anodized as it is the
toughest coating found. Powder coating of steel does not even come close.
Guess the .next toughest coating material is fiber glass gel coat , but it too
oxidizes without care.
But to those of us that have chosen the classic Silver Streaks, I just cannot
fathom the removal of the anodizing.
The gold on some mid "70's" models was produced with bad primer and material
and is very faded to non existent.
Now to cleaning, ie: polishing; I have tried several formulas, from MEK and
liquid car wax and silicon mixture, WD-40, Transmission fluid all which
produce a temporary luster.
I keep going back to a formula that was given to me by the folks at Hill Top
Rv in Red Oak Texas (Dallas Area). They were a SS dealer for over 50 years and
most SS's sold in and around Texas came from Hill Top. The wife and son's of
the original owner still operate the dealership of course no SS's !!!.
The formula is simple and will last several months. It both cleans and
provides the luster. It still requires, elbow grease but not hard buffing
,cuts most black streaks , tar, mold etc.
I am careful to stay away from the vinyl although it does not seem to affect
it.
The Formula: 5 parts lacquer thinner and one part olive oil. Do not use this
on a clear coat airstream!!!!!!!!
The lacquer cleaner cleans and the very fine film of olive oil seems to
penetrate the anodized alum. It does not seem to catch the dust like WD-40.
Tom has our rig posted on his site under "Dupree Coach"
Hope this helps. Just try the formula on a panel and see the results and how
long it last. I do try and wash my rig monthly with a good Rv/Car soap, just
to get the road grime off.
Sorry for such long message but perhaps it will help.
Happy Trails
Jim & Dot Dupree
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:40:25 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 -RV storage
You have to do what you have to. For many the cost of a shelter, or local
codes, precludes a shed or garage. But just as with automobiles, RVs will
stay in better condition longer if they are under a roof, better,
enclosed, and even better, enclosed in a heated garage. By "heated" I
don't mean 72 degrees, I mean kept a few degrees warmer than the outdoor
temperature, and above freezing.
My '79 SS was used for about 5 years, then kept in heated indoor storage
for 19 years. It has some drying-out of the exterior rubber seals but
looks near new.
In the last 8 months since we have been using it, it has been out of
doors all the time. I can see the deterioration already.
It's not leakage of rain. It's the sweating from temperature and humidity
changes. An aluminum box is just going to have a lot of condensation if
it's kept outdoors.
I now have a dehumidifier on all the time. Its tank fills up in a couple
of days when rain is around. The rest of the time it fills only very
slowly.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:49:54 -0600 "Tom Patterson"
<tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> I keep both my '65 Streamline trailer and '65 Streamline Motorhome in
outdoor storage. No doubt that they can leak, but leakage should not be
a problem as long as they are in use, and are being monitored. No
different than other types of maintenance required for a trailer. Just
like tires which need to be replaced when they age.
>
> I think that the term "go down" is a little extreme. All you really
have is another maintence item to deal with.
>
> -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 08:49:48 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
If the original insignias are intact but broken, they can be used to make
a rubber mold and new ones cast with casting resin. They will have to be
painted unless the casting resin has ample UV inhibitor in it.
If the roof is factory prepped for an A/C you should be able to install
one with no trouble.
Consider an A/C installed under the cabinets inside, or under the floor.
IMO a much superior place for any HVAC unit than on the roof. Central
heat and A/C is the way to go if practical. Using one of the roof vent
holes is the popular way because it's cheap and simple.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:38:38 -0600 "Tom Patterson"
<tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> I am not totally familiar with the Silver Streak insignias, but thought
that they were all decals. If not, casting new ones is an option.
>
> Some of the Streamline trailer insignias were decals, but earlier ones
from the 60's were plastic. In the case of my trailer, they had broken
and were no longer intact. I tried for some time to have new ones cast,
but the firms I approached had quite a bit of difficulty casting new
ones, as the aluminum kept breaking on them.
>
> I did finally find a company here in Houston that was able to cast
intact replicas for me, and they have worked out quite well. I did have
to undercoat the aluminum before applying a finish coat of paint, as the
cast aluminum does outgas. For the final coat, I went to a model shop,
and used the paint that for model cars. I had been told by others that
regular spray paint doesn't last, but the model shop paint seems to be
holding up.
>
> -Tom
....................................
> I also have a window type air conditioner mounted in the rear. I am
considering removing it and re-installing a window there and putting a
roof mount AC where the front vent/skylight is located. Would this be too
much weight on the roof? One other thing and I'll quit typing and get to
restoring, this SS has tandem axles under it.
> > What is the proper tongue weight and height for stable towing? I have
enjoyed everyone's comments and will try to find a place to post some
photos of the project as it progresses.
> >
> > CUL
> >
> > Travis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:46:40 -0800
From: "Joan Mayeaux" <j.mayeaux@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: RE: [SilverStreak] Electronic Jack
I've been reading all of the postings with fascination, but so far haven't
had anything to contribute.... We have a 79 Supreme Rocket in pretty good
condition. It needs some work - the electronic jack just died on us on our
most recent camping expedition and we found out that we didn't have the hand
crank which caused minor panic until my hubby improvised with a wrench
handle. We have all of the original paper work/ owners manual. We've had it
for 5 years and only used it twice, but its so retro we love it!! Seems
like it has started to deteriorate a bit recently, but it probably is the
result of non-use.
Thanks to Jim for solving the mystery of why we have none of the gold tone
on ours. It is nonexistent. I thought that it may have been built without.
Does anyone have any hot tip replacing or repairing the electric jack?
Thanks in advance!
Joan
- -----Original Message-----
From: sslist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com [mailto:sslist-admin@xxxxxxxxxx.com]
On Behalf Of Jim and Dorothy Dupree
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 6:25 AM
To: sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] ss polishing
Hey Gang:
I have been reading and observing all the comments about removing the
anodizing on the SS rigs.Having owned a "76" airstream for 12 years, dealing
with the chipping, pealing and dull clear coat, I have been so pleased with
my
Mod. 3411 Supreme 1985 Silver Streak which I have had 4 years, I would
never
even consider removing the anodizing.
To see natural aluminum, in any construction use is very unusual. Building,
frames, window frames, boat accessories etc. are all anodized as it is the
toughest coating found. Powder coating of steel does not even come close.
Guess the .next toughest coating material is fiber glass gel coat , but it
too
oxidizes without care.
But to those of us that have chosen the classic Silver Streaks, I just
cannot
fathom the removal of the anodizing.
The gold on some mid "70's" models was produced with bad primer and material
and is very faded to non existent.
Now to cleaning, ie: polishing; I have tried several formulas, from MEK and
liquid car wax and silicon mixture, WD-40, Transmission fluid all which
produce a temporary luster.
I keep going back to a formula that was given to me by the folks at Hill Top
Rv in Red Oak Texas (Dallas Area). They were a SS dealer for over 50 years
and
most SS's sold in and around Texas came from Hill Top. The wife and son's of
the original owner still operate the dealership of course no SS's !!!.
The formula is simple and will last several months. It both cleans and
provides the luster. It still requires, elbow grease but not hard buffing
,cuts most black streaks , tar, mold etc.
I am careful to stay away from the vinyl although it does not seem to affect
it.
The Formula: 5 parts lacquer thinner and one part olive oil. Do not use
this
on a clear coat airstream!!!!!!!!
The lacquer cleaner cleans and the very fine film of olive oil seems to
penetrate the anodized alum. It does not seem to catch the dust like WD-40.
Tom has our rig posted on his site under "Dupree Coach"
Hope this helps. Just try the formula on a panel and see the results and how
long it last. I do try and wash my rig monthly with a good Rv/Car soap, just
to get the road grime off.
Sorry for such long message but perhaps it will help.
Happy Trails
Jim & Dot Dupree
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:03:32 -0800
From: "Carl Rodgers" <carlandjoann@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
One other way to make new insignias and the Silver Streak on the front and
rear would be to buy some 1/16 or 1/8 inch plastic sheeting, trace the
letters on the sheeting and cut out with a scroll saw on low speed. Spray
Paint the plastic letters red and glue them on the same spots where the
other were. Should look pretty good and would be easier than molds and
resin. Of course once you went to the expense of molds you could market the
letters to your fellow SS'ers. Also on the scroll saw cut ones you should
round the top edges of the letters with a fine file Carl Rodgers
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 6:49 AM
Subject: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
> If the original insignias are intact but broken, they can be used to make
> a rubber mold and new ones cast with casting resin. They will have to be
> painted unless the casting resin has ample UV inhibitor in it.
>
> If the roof is factory prepped for an A/C you should be able to install
> one with no trouble.
> Consider an A/C installed under the cabinets inside, or under the floor.
> IMO a much superior place for any HVAC unit than on the roof. Central
> heat and A/C is the way to go if practical. Using one of the roof vent
> holes is the popular way because it's cheap and simple.
> Al
>
> On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 07:38:38 -0600 "Tom Patterson"
> <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> > I am not totally familiar with the Silver Streak insignias, but thought
> that they were all decals. If not, casting new ones is an option.
> >
> > Some of the Streamline trailer insignias were decals, but earlier ones
> from the 60's were plastic. In the case of my trailer, they had broken
> and were no longer intact. I tried for some time to have new ones cast,
> but the firms I approached had quite a bit of difficulty casting new
> ones, as the aluminum kept breaking on them.
> >
> > I did finally find a company here in Houston that was able to cast
> intact replicas for me, and they have worked out quite well. I did have
> to undercoat the aluminum before applying a finish coat of paint, as the
> cast aluminum does outgas. For the final coat, I went to a model shop,
> and used the paint that for model cars. I had been told by others that
> regular spray paint doesn't last, but the model shop paint seems to be
> holding up.
> >
> > -Tom
> ....................................
> > I also have a window type air conditioner mounted in the rear. I am
> considering removing it and re-installing a window there and putting a
> roof mount AC where the front vent/skylight is located. Would this be too
> much weight on the roof? One other thing and I'll quit typing and get to
> restoring, this SS has tandem axles under it.
> > > What is the proper tongue weight and height for stable towing? I have
> enjoyed everyone's comments and will try to find a place to post some
> photos of the project as it progresses.
> > >
> > > CUL
> > >
> > > Travis
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:18:53 EST
From: DICKNBETYL@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] Entry door hinges....
I have a 1972 SS and some time long ago the entry door hinges were replaced
with the newer style that was used on 74 models and up. They need replacing
again, I beleive the SS #'s are 105-1, 105-2, 105-3 if any one has a complete
set, or partials please contact me. Also check your door hinges for wear. I
was suprised how deteriorated these were....Dick Lambert
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 19:55:56 -0600
From: Travis Pitts <travisP@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
Hi Folks,
I see a lot of chatter about removing the anodized finish from aluminum. I
, personally, think it is a bad idea. The anodization process was developed
to prevent aluminum from deteriorating. If everyone strips this protective
coating from the great trailers we have there will be none left for the
future SSers. They don't make 'em like they used to!!! I think it is great
to find something 35 years old and still in good condition. I have a canoe
about the same age as my '68 SS and built with the same technology with the
anodized aluminum and rivets and she is still a great canoe. I thought I
would shine her up and make it all shiny and such ( I used SOS and a lot
of elbow grease) and she shined for a while, but, it came right back to
the satin finish that it was meant to be after a few months. I think that
what we should be putting our talents to removing the stains that occur on
anodized finishes. My SS has the gold anodized finish on the trim streak
down the side. It is not in too bad of condition but I can see it has
deteriorated some. Has anybody ever heard of gold chloride for quick
plating metal? I have used it on copper clad circuit boards and it is
instantaneous on copper, I don't know about aluminum. Bye for now... :-)
CUL
Travis
- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:57:33 EST
From: Jotatwcd@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
I have plastic lettering on my SS that is epoxied to the surface. I have
decided that when I loose a letter, I will trace one from the opposite side since
they are duplicated on back and front. I can either cut it from plexiglas or
have a local sign shop duplicate them. I also
repainted my lettering with the bright red paint (oil base) and they look
brand new.
The later models were black decals. A person may even want to take the
insignia from a brochure and blow it up to size to create a pattern!
James
77 SS
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:16:35 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
Good luck on a sign shop. I never could find one that could duplicate my
Streamline logo.
They just don't do that kind of thing anymore. Beveled edges and small
spaces inside the lettering were beyond them. Casting turned out to be the
only thing I could find that worked, and I talked to a lot of sign shops!
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Jotatwcd@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak
> I have plastic lettering on my SS that is epoxied to the surface. I have
> decided that when I loose a letter, I will trace one from the opposite
side since
> they are duplicated on back and front. I can either cut it from plexiglas
or
> have a local sign shop duplicate them. I also
> repainted my lettering with the bright red paint (oil base) and they look
> brand new.
> The later models were black decals. A person may even want to take the
> insignia from a brochure and blow it up to size to create a pattern!
>
> James
> 77 SS
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:17:52 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
I painted the gold anodizing on the side of my trailer, and it came out
pretty good. I do understand though that you can buy new gold anodized
material.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis Pitts" <travisP@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 7:55 PM
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
> Hi Folks,
> I see a lot of chatter about removing the anodized finish from aluminum. I
> , personally, think it is a bad idea. The anodization process was
developed
> to prevent aluminum from deteriorating. If everyone strips this protective
> coating from the great trailers we have there will be none left for the
> future SSers. They don't make 'em like they used to!!! I think it is great
> to find something 35 years old and still in good condition. I have a canoe
> about the same age as my '68 SS and built with the same technology with
the
> anodized aluminum and rivets and she is still a great canoe. I thought I
> would shine her up and make it all shiny and such ( I used SOS and a lot
> of elbow grease) and she shined for a while, but, it came right back to
> the satin finish that it was meant to be after a few months. I think that
> what we should be putting our talents to removing the stains that occur on
> anodized finishes. My SS has the gold anodized finish on the trim streak
> down the side. It is not in too bad of condition but I can see it has
> deteriorated some. Has anybody ever heard of gold chloride for quick
> plating metal? I have used it on copper clad circuit boards and it is
> instantaneous on copper, I don't know about aluminum. Bye for now... :-)
>
> CUL
>
> Travis
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.559 / Virus Database: 351 - Release Date: 1/7/04
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:57:32 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
Just a little further information........
The picture which was taken at the Silver Trailer Social was during a
polishing demonstration. I placed the information on the website as I said
I would, and you can find it at
http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Polish.html. Note that there is
a hypertext link to the Perfect Polish website and you can find this
information as well as more on polishing there.
- -Tom
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Patterson" <tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
> That was taken at the Silver Trailer Social in Calistoga, Ca. last May
> during a polishing seminar. He was using a compound called Nuvite Polish.
> The polished spot had not been done before he started in on it, and it
only
> took a minute or two.
>
> I do have the write-up on the polishing and will scan it and put it up on
> the website, either tonight or tomorrow. It is fairly detailed.
>
> -Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ros" <ros@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 6:33 PM
> Subject: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
>
>
> > It is this picture in your website, that I was
> > referring. http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Silver/DSCN1929a.html
> >
> > I wish I knew more about this picture such as what compound this guy is
> > using, if the polished spot had been done before this final picture and
> how
> > long it took.
> >
> > Ros
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:15:06 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Electronic Jack
What brand of jack is it? Mine is a Reese. I'm missing the crank handle
too. If you find a source let me know.
Have you checked the power to the jack?
It might be a bad ground. The jack is grounded through the base where
it's screwed to the A-frame.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 13:46:40 -0800 "Joan Mayeaux" <j.mayeaux@xxxxxxxxxx.net>
writes:
..........
> It needs some work - the electronic jack just died on us on our most
recent camping expedition and we found out that we didn't have the hand
crank which caused minor panic until my hubby improvised with a wrench
handle. We have all of the original paper work/ owners manual. We've had
it for 5 years and only used it twice, but its so retro we love it!!
.............................................
>
> Does anyone have any hot tip replacing or repairing the electric jack?
>
.............................
>
> Joan
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 22:31:16 -0600
From: "Jim and Dorothy Dupree" <dottiedup@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: [SilverStreak] 2004 rally
Tom
Do you have any information on the 2004 Silver Trailer Social or Vintage
Rally. Where, when etc!
Thanks
Jim
"85" SS Mod.3411
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:53:46 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #39 - gold anodized alu
I bought a 4' x 8' sheet of gold anodized aluminum sheet several years
ago. It has a brushed texture.
The brand is "(something)Art." They make different colors, finishes and
thicknesses. They also make kitchen counter formica-type sheet in many
colors and patterns.
If you really want the most superb gold finish, use gold leaf!! Oh, if
it's ugly, just paint it.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:17:52 -0600 "Tom Patterson"
<tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> I painted the gold anodizing on the side of my trailer, and it came out
pretty good. I do understand though that you can buy new gold anodized
material.
>
> -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 23:59:24 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Silver Streak lettering
My '79 has red stick-on "Silver Streak" stylized script lettering on the
front and back roof curves, and script "SS" on the trunk door. It's in
excellent condition. I'm careful when cleaning not to catch the edges and
corners of the lettering.
My "Supreme Saturn" stick-on lettering on each side at the front corners
is fading.
Al
........................
> The later models were black decals. A person may even want to take the
insignia from a brochure and blow it up to size to create a pattern!
>
> James
> 77 SS
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 00:06:43 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Entry door hinges....
I was able to get the upper hinge pin out and flush the hinge bore out
clean. As the vertical bearing surfaces were worn, letting the door hang
low, I got a couple of nylon washers at Lowe's or Home Depot that were
the same thickness as the worn space in the hinge, and the washers' holes
slipped snugly on the hinge pin as I put it back in. My door now swings
at the right height and the latch and deadbolt line up properly with the
strike holes in the jamb.
The hinge pin in the lower hinge would not come out, but the nylon
washers in the upper hinge carry the vertical load, so it doesn't matter.
If you really need to get a hinge pin out, you will have to drill a small
hole in the bottom of the hinge that will allow a small pin punch to slip
thru to tap the hinge pin up and out.
When you lubricate the hinges use plenty of thin oil (I use a Teflon
bearing oil by "Slick 50") over several days to flush all the old oil,
wear particles and road dust out that is possible.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 20:18:53 EST DICKNBETYL@xxxxxxxxxx.com writes:
> I have a 1972 SS and some time long ago the entry door hinges were
replaced with the newer style that was used on 74 models and up. They
need replacing again, I believe the SS #'s are 105-1, 105-2, 105-3 if
any one has a complete set, or partials please contact me. Also check
your door hinges for wear. I was suprised how deteriorated these
were....Dick Lambert
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 00:17:46 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
Low temp melting point metal like Cerrobend (Cerro de Pasco Corp.) can
also be used. An alloy that will melt in a pressure cooker is much more
manageable for the home hobbyist than aluminum (1,100 deg F if I recall
correctly), which cannot be cast in a rubber mold. The Cerrobend will
bend like lead.
Rubber molds are not expensive unless very large.
Try CastCraft.com.
Al
On Thu, 15 Jan 2004 15:03:32 -0800 "Carl Rodgers"
<carlandjoann@xxxxxxxxxx.net> writes:
> One other way to make new insignias and the Silver Streak on the front
and rear would be to buy some 1/16 or 1/8 inch plastic sheeting, trace
the letters on the sheeting and cut out with a scroll saw on low speed.
> Spray Paint the plastic letters red and glue them on the same spots
where the other were. Should look pretty good and would be easier than
molds and resin. Of course once you went to the expense of molds you
could market the letters to your fellow SS'ers. Also on the scroll saw
cut ones you should round the top edges of the letters with a fine file
Carl Rodgers
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> To: <sslist@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 6:49 AM
> Subject: [SilverStreak] Re: Silver Streak - Insignias and A/C
>
>
> > If the original insignias are intact but broken, they can be used to
make a rubber mold and new ones cast with casting resin. They will have
to be painted unless the casting resin has ample UV inhibitor in it.
------------------------------
End of Silver Streak Digest V1 #40
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