The Silver Streak E-mail ListDigest Archive Files
Silver Streak Digest V1 #39
Silver Streak Digest Thursday, January 15 2004 Volume 01 : Number 039
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Topics in Today's Digest:
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Re: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
[SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 - Electric problems
Re: [SilverStreak] Pictures
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Re: [SilverStreak] 19' Silver Streak
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:43:14 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
That mirror shine is great for show but it is terrible to other travelers
in the sun. Some commercial trailers are mirror polished and they can be
blinding.
The dull look is characteristic of anodization on mill finish
(unpolished) base metal. A wax will shine it up for a while.
Anodization of aluminum is the electrochemical formation of aluminum
oxide, corundum, on the surface of the metal. Its thickness may be
controlled by the process of formation. Corundum is one of the hardest
materials known, second only to diamond in hardness. It is what ruby
(red) and sapphire (all other colors) are made of. Anodizing is
microporous and is often dyed (this is the color of color anodized
articles, not the ruby or sapphire color).
So it does not gradually wear away. The thin coating of corundum on the
surface of a soft metal must be abruptly broken through and scraped away.
Until the anodizing is all out of the way, the aluminum itself will not
be polished.
Aluminum and the alloys used for trailer skins is rather soft. It will
not stay bare for long either, as it will form a coating of aluminum
oxide beginning immediately. Any impurities in the air will also react
with the aluminum, not just oxygen, forming other (undesirable)
compounds.
Petroleum products in general, such as kerosene, WD40, etc., are sticky
and will hold dust, making the skin dirty more rapidly than if it is
clean and dry, or waxed.
If you decide to polish, you might consider clear coating. The skin will
have to be kept clean and dry after polishing until it is clear coated so
that the only chemical reaction of the aluminum will be a light coating
of aluminum oxide.
Go over to the Airstream site and look up information on polishing and
clear coating.
Al
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 16:28:40 -0600 Ros <ros@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> List members:
>
> We have really enjoying seeing the pictures of Silver Streaks.
>
> Again, I am toying with the idea of polishing off the anodizing on our
33.5 footer. Who on this list has done this and just how huge of a job
is it? I have all sorts of buffers and air-tools. This is such a nice
looking trailer when washed and rubbed with kerosene or some other
petroleum distillate however, it doesn't last but a few weeks and then it
goes back to dull again.
>
> I realize that once polished by compounding the protective anodizing
off, it will require touch-up or re-doing frequently. What I don't know
is how long (average?) it lasts before needing polishing. I would assume
that would depend upon the climate and here in Houston has to be very bad
for any raw metal.
>
> Anyway, can anyone give me some input on this such as what
materials/brands, time required, tools required and how many heating pads
will I need at night? What size did you do?
>
> They really look great with the mirror shine!
>
> Thank you.
>
> Ros
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:46:45 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Found picture of polished spot
Have any tried WENOL polish? I have used it and it really makes bare
metal bright. It is nonabrasive, so it won't remove the anodizing from
anodized aluminum.
Al
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:43:17 -0600 "Tom Patterson"
<tomp@xxxxxxxxxx.com> writes:
> That was taken at the Silver Trailer Social in Calistoga, Ca. last May
during a polishing seminar. He was using a compound called Nuvite
Polish.
> The polished spot had not been done before he started in on it, and it
only took a minute or two.
>
> I do have the write-up on the polishing and will scan it and put it up
on the website, either tonight or tomorrow. It is fairly detailed.
>
> -Tom
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:25:47 -0800
From: "WILLIAM SCHMID" <5150-n-flipper@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Ros,
You are a brave soul to take on such a chore, I have maintained the polishing
of wheels and fuel tanks on an 18 wheeler in the past and know that it is a
lot of work.
As far as compounds, use the brown Rouge to cut the anodized finish, then the
green Rouge to bring up the shine and finally use the white Rouge to polish to
a mirror finish.
An air or electric polisher would be recommended for such a large area to
polish. By hand it would be a tremendous undertaking.
Good luck.
Thanks, Tom.
I would not even consider sanding. As you mentioned, once sanded, the
scratches must be polished out.
There are all sorts of grades of compound and I would ^^^^ASSUME^^^^ there
is a grade available to remove the oxide put on by the factory. In looking
at one of the rallys, I saw a fellow with polisher in hand and he had
polished about 1 sq.ft. of a SS where as all the rest of the unit was
undone. That makes me wonder if it cannot be done sans the sanding.
Also, caustic soda will clean aluminum but is very, very dangerous to work
with as if just a tad splashes into your eyes, you have major problems. It
will eat skin, too. However, wearing goggles and gloves could circumvent
all of that. Nitric acid will also clean it. Nitric is much, much more
dangerous....extremely so.
Anyway, I would be interested in ALL INPUT AND PICTURES.
Tom, I know this is hard to quantify but just how hard is it to MAINTAIN
your trailer on a yearly basis? How long does it take you to bring it back
by hand-rubbing?
Thanks for your input.
Ros
At 05:03 PM 1/13/04, you wrote:
>You can get the anodized finish off of your trailer, but it is a huge job.
>I have seen the results where the anodized finish was taken off of a 19'
>Streamline. It was sanded off. Polish will not take the finish off. It
>was done by Robert Madrigal in Whittier, California, who hired some
>immigrant labor, I think, to do at least some of the rough work. He had
>done some of it himself, using acid along with the sandpaper, and his
hands
>showed the results. The grit he used was a little coarse, and I forget
just
>what grit he should have used. I can find out however, and let you know.
I
>also have some pictures somewhere of his unit and will dig them out. When
I
>find them I can put them up on the site.
>
>The last I heard, he was going to have the unit polished next, so as to
>remove the sanding marks. I don't know if he did so or not, but can find
>this out also, and probably have him arrange to send me some current
>pictures if this was done. Robert is not on the internet.
>
>Several years ago, I ran across a shiny Silver Streak, and thought that it
>had been manufactured that way, but Bob Ashby tells me that it had to have
>been originally anodized. I have pictures of that unit somewhere too, and
>will look for them.
>
>As you say, once the anodized finish is removed, the aluminum must be
>periodically polished so as to remove the oxidization. I do this more or
>less yearly on my 22' Streamline, using a product called Zephyr Pro 40
which
>is available in Houston from Rush Peterbilt on 610 near the Budweiser
>brewery. I have done this by hand in the past, but intend to try a
polisher
>next time. I don't think the Houston climate is any different than other
>climates in its effects, as what happens is that the aluminum oxidizes and
>the resulting oxidization is very tight, so that the process can only
occur
>on the surface, and the metal does not oxidize all the way through the was
>that iron rusts.
>
>-Tom
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ros" >
>To: >
>Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 4:28 PM
>Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
>
>
> > List members:
> >
> > We have really enjoying seeing the pictures of Silver Streaks.
> >
> > Again, I am toying with the idea of polishing off the anodizing on our
>33.5
> > footer. Who on this list has done this and just how huge of a job is
> > it? I have all sorts of buffers and air-tools. This is such a nice
> > looking trailer when washed and rubbed with kerosene or some other
> > petroleum distillate however, it doesn't last but a few weeks and then
it
> > goes back to dull again.
> >
> > I realize that once polished by compounding the protective anodizing
off,
> > it will require touch-up or re-doing frequently. What I don't know is
how
> > long (average?) it lasts before needing polishing. I would assume that
> > would depend upon the climate and here in Houston has to be very bad
for
> > any raw metal.
> >
> > Anyway, can anyone give me some input on this such as what
> > materials/brands, time required, tools required and how many heating
pads
> > will I need at night? What size did you do?
> >
> >
> > They really look great with the mirror shine!
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Ros
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text.
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >
http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:27:28 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: [SilverStreak] RE: Silver Streak Digest V1 #33 - Electric problems
I hope you get a shed roof over your trailer, as they all go down if
continually exposed to the elements. Water always seems to get in
somewhere. The lap seams in the skin are not likely to leak unless dented
because sealer is between the sheets. Make sure the roof vents' flanges
are caulked, which includes the vent taken up by the A/C.
We have a dehumidifier that helps keep the interior dry but of course the
space between the inner and outer skins is open to the outside and does
not get dehumidified. A dry indoor storage is the best place to keep a
trailer or MH.
The converter should not affect the 115VAC system as its only connection
to it is where it plugs in to its own 115VAC receptacle. The only thing
it could do to the 115VAC would be if it malfunctioned and popped the
circuit breaker.
Al
On Wed, 7 Jan 2004 08:45:35 -0800 "Merrell, Marcia"
writes:
> I have had the same problem in my '83, and pretty much the exact same
outlets.
> Had more than one electrician working on it, then finally a guy with
good common sense fixed it for me---he thought it was likely a convertor
problem, so I have been watching it. He didn't speak much english, so
I'm not sure
we communicated accurately, but I believe he was somewhat stumped.
> He did fix it though! Good luck to you!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 00:20:27 +0900
From: Jeffrey Fryckman
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] Pictures
Thanks, Tom (if I may). You are GREAT!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:10:42 -0600
From: Ros
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
I'm not brave but very stupid to consider such a venture. Still, I am not
sure that I will undertake this project - just toying with it.
If I have to re-polish every two or so months, I am not interested.
Ros
At 03:25 AM 1/14/04, you wrote:
>Ros,
>
> You are a brave soul to take on such a chore, I have maintained the
> polishing
>of wheels and fuel tanks on an 18 wheeler in the past and know that it is a
>lot of work.
>
>As far as compounds, use the brown Rouge to cut the anodized finish, then the
>green Rouge to bring up the shine and finally use the white Rouge to polish to
>a mirror finish.
>
> From there use a good polish such as Tom has recommended to protect the
>finish. It should last at least a few months depending on exposure to
>elements. Smog is a real killer to polished metal, as is salt. You should be
>ok in Houston though, as you are far enough away from the coast not to get the
>salt air.
>
>An air or electric polisher would be recommended for such a large area to
>polish. By hand it would be a tremendous undertaking.
>
>Good luck.
>
>
>
> Thanks, Tom.
>
> I would not even consider sanding. As you mentioned, once sanded, the
> scratches must be polished out.
>
> There are all sorts of grades of compound and I would ^^^^ASSUME^^^^ there
> is a grade available to remove the oxide put on by the factory. In looking
> at one of the rallys, I saw a fellow with polisher in hand and he had
> polished about 1 sq.ft. of a SS where as all the rest of the unit was
> undone. That makes me wonder if it cannot be done sans the sanding.
>
> Also, caustic soda will clean aluminum but is very, very dangerous to work
> with as if just a tad splashes into your eyes, you have major problems. It
> will eat skin, too. However, wearing goggles and gloves could circumvent
> all of that. Nitric acid will also clean it. Nitric is much, much more
> dangerous....extremely so.
>
> Anyway, I would be interested in ALL INPUT AND PICTURES.
>
> Tom, I know this is hard to quantify but just how hard is it to MAINTAIN
> your trailer on a yearly basis? How long does it take you to bring it back
> by hand-rubbing?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> Ros
>
>
> At 05:03 PM 1/13/04, you wrote:
> >You can get the anodized finish off of your trailer, but it is a huge job.
> >I have seen the results where the anodized finish was taken off of a 19'
> >Streamline. It was sanded off. Polish will not take the finish off. It
> >was done by Robert Madrigal in Whittier, California, who hired some
> >immigrant labor, I think, to do at least some of the rough work. He had
> >done some of it himself, using acid along with the sandpaper, and his
>hands
> >showed the results. The grit he used was a little coarse, and I forget
>just
> >what grit he should have used. I can find out however, and let you know.
>I
> >also have some pictures somewhere of his unit and will dig them out. When
>I
> >find them I can put them up on the site.
> >
> >The last I heard, he was going to have the unit polished next, so as to
> >remove the sanding marks. I don't know if he did so or not, but can find
> >this out also, and probably have him arrange to send me some current
> >pictures if this was done. Robert is not on the internet.
> >
> >Several years ago, I ran across a shiny Silver Streak, and thought that it
> >had been manufactured that way, but Bob Ashby tells me that it had to have
> >been originally anodized. I have pictures of that unit somewhere too, and
> >will look for them.
> >
> >As you say, once the anodized finish is removed, the aluminum must be
> >periodically polished so as to remove the oxidization. I do this more or
> >less yearly on my 22' Streamline, using a product called Zephyr Pro 40
>which
> >is available in Houston from Rush Peterbilt on 610 near the Budweiser
> >brewery. I have done this by hand in the past, but intend to try a
>polisher
> >next time. I don't think the Houston climate is any different than other
> >climates in its effects, as what happens is that the aluminum oxidizes and
> >the resulting oxidization is very tight, so that the process can only
>occur
> >on the surface, and the metal does not oxidize all the way through the was
> >that iron rusts.
> >
> >-Tom
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ros" >
> >To: >
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 4:28 PM
> >Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
> >
> >
> > > List members:
> > >
> > > We have really enjoying seeing the pictures of Silver Streaks.
> > >
> > > Again, I am toying with the idea of polishing off the anodizing on our
> >33.5
> > > footer. Who on this list has done this and just how huge of a job is
> > > it? I have all sorts of buffers and air-tools. This is such a nice
> > > looking trailer when washed and rubbed with kerosene or some other
> > > petroleum distillate however, it doesn't last but a few weeks and then
>it
> > > goes back to dull again.
> > >
> > > I realize that once polished by compounding the protective anodizing
>off,
> > > it will require touch-up or re-doing frequently. What I don't know is
>how
> > > long (average?) it lasts before needing polishing. I would assume that
> > > would depend upon the climate and here in Houston has to be very bad
>for
> > > any raw metal.
> > >
> > > Anyway, can anyone give me some input on this such as what
> > > materials/brands, time required, tools required and how many heating
>pads
> > > will I need at night? What size did you do?
> > >
> > >
> > > They really look great with the mirror shine!
> > >
> > > Thank you.
> > >
> > > Ros
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
>text.
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > >
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.htmlatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html>
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------
> >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
> >
> >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> >http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text.
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.htmlmpatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:52:31 -0800
From: "Carl Rodgers"
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Hi Ros I hate to be a naysayer but if it were me I would not even consider
removing the anodizing . I've owned 3 airstreams as well as the SS we now
own and was a member of the Wally Byam Airsteam club for a number of years.
I have seen SO MANY airstreams where the clear coat was flaking off and the
roofs and sides of the Streams were nearly black with corrosion and without
the clearcoat on your de-anodized SS you would be polishing on it
continuously. If you do clear coat after you've shined your trailer I'll bet
a dime to a donut that clearcoat will be flaking off within two years due to
the difference in expansion between the aluminum and the clearcoat. I will
take my anodized trailer anytime. I'm also pretty sure that Airstream
learned its lesson and is no longer clear coating but is now anodizing. Is
that right Airstreamers??? Carl
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ros"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2004 11:10 AM
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
> I'm not brave but very stupid to consider such a venture. Still, I am not
> sure that I will undertake this project - just toying with it.
>
> If I have to re-polish every two or so months, I am not interested.
>
> Ros
>
> At 03:25 AM 1/14/04, you wrote:
> >Ros,
> >
> > You are a brave soul to take on such a chore, I have maintained the
> > polishing
> >of wheels and fuel tanks on an 18 wheeler in the past and know that it is
a
> >lot of work.
> >
> >As far as compounds, use the brown Rouge to cut the anodized finish, then
the
> >green Rouge to bring up the shine and finally use the white Rouge to
polish to
> >a mirror finish.
> >
> > From there use a good polish such as Tom has recommended to protect the
> >finish. It should last at least a few months depending on exposure to
> >elements. Smog is a real killer to polished metal, as is salt. You should
be
> >ok in Houston though, as you are far enough away from the coast not to
get the
> >salt air.
> >
> >An air or electric polisher would be recommended for such a large area to
> >polish. By hand it would be a tremendous undertaking.
> >
> >Good luck.
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Tom.
> >
> > I would not even consider sanding. As you mentioned, once sanded, the
> > scratches must be polished out.
> >
> > There are all sorts of grades of compound and I would ^^^^ASSUME^^^^
there
> > is a grade available to remove the oxide put on by the factory. In
looking
> > at one of the rallys, I saw a fellow with polisher in hand and he had
> > polished about 1 sq.ft. of a SS where as all the rest of the unit was
> > undone. That makes me wonder if it cannot be done sans the sanding.
> >
> > Also, caustic soda will clean aluminum but is very, very dangerous to
work
> > with as if just a tad splashes into your eyes, you have major
problems. It
> > will eat skin, too. However, wearing goggles and gloves could
circumvent
> > all of that. Nitric acid will also clean it. Nitric is much, much
more
> > dangerous....extremely so.
> >
> > Anyway, I would be interested in ALL INPUT AND PICTURES.
> >
> > Tom, I know this is hard to quantify but just how hard is it to
MAINTAIN
> > your trailer on a yearly basis? How long does it take you to bring it
back
> > by hand-rubbing?
> >
> > Thanks for your input.
> >
> > Ros
> >
> >
> > At 05:03 PM 1/13/04, you wrote:
> > >You can get the anodized finish off of your trailer, but it is a huge
job.
> > >I have seen the results where the anodized finish was taken off of a
19'
> > >Streamline. It was sanded off. Polish will not take the finish off.
It
> > >was done by Robert Madrigal in Whittier, California, who hired some
> > >immigrant labor, I think, to do at least some of the rough work. He
had
> > >done some of it himself, using acid along with the sandpaper, and his
> >hands
> > >showed the results. The grit he used was a little coarse, and I
forget
> >just
> > >what grit he should have used. I can find out however, and let you
know.
> >I
> > >also have some pictures somewhere of his unit and will dig them out.
When
> >I
> > >find them I can put them up on the site.
> > >
> > >The last I heard, he was going to have the unit polished next, so as
to
> > >remove the sanding marks. I don't know if he did so or not, but can
find
> > >this out also, and probably have him arrange to send me some current
> > >pictures if this was done. Robert is not on the internet.
> > >
> > >Several years ago, I ran across a shiny Silver Streak, and thought
that it
> > >had been manufactured that way, but Bob Ashby tells me that it had to
have
> > >been originally anodized. I have pictures of that unit somewhere
too, and
> > >will look for them.
> > >
> > >As you say, once the anodized finish is removed, the aluminum must be
> > >periodically polished so as to remove the oxidization. I do this
more or
> > >less yearly on my 22' Streamline, using a product called Zephyr Pro
40
> >which
> > >is available in Houston from Rush Peterbilt on 610 near the Budweiser
> > >brewery. I have done this by hand in the past, but intend to try a
> >polisher
> > >next time. I don't think the Houston climate is any different than
other
> > >climates in its effects, as what happens is that the aluminum
oxidizes and
> > >the resulting oxidization is very tight, so that the process can only
> >occur
> > >on the surface, and the metal does not oxidize all the way through
the was
> > >that iron rusts.
> > >
> > >-Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Ros" >
> > >To: >
> > >Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 4:28 PM
> > >Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
> > >
> > >
> > > > List members:
> > > >
> > > > We have really enjoying seeing the pictures of Silver Streaks.
> > > >
> > > > Again, I am toying with the idea of polishing off the anodizing on
our
> > >33.5
> > > > footer. Who on this list has done this and just how huge of a job
is
> > > > it? I have all sorts of buffers and air-tools. This is such a
nice
> > > > looking trailer when washed and rubbed with kerosene or some other
> > > > petroleum distillate however, it doesn't last but a few weeks and
then
> >it
> > > > goes back to dull again.
> > > >
> > > > I realize that once polished by compounding the protective
anodizing
> >off,
> > > > it will require touch-up or re-doing frequently. What I don't
know is
> >how
> > > > long (average?) it lasts before needing polishing. I would assume
that
> > > > would depend upon the climate and here in Houston has to be very
bad
> >for
> > > > any raw metal.
> > > >
> > > > Anyway, can anyone give me some input on this such as what
> > > > materials/brands, time required, tools required and how many
heating
> >pads
> > > > will I need at night? What size did you do?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > They really look great with the mirror shine!
> > > >
> > > > Thank you.
> > > >
> > > > Ros
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
> >text.
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > > >
>
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html >atterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html>
> > >
> > >------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text.
> > >
> > >To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
> > >http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverstreak/List/listoffice.html
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original
text.
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a digest format, please go to
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 15:50:23 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
I would rather paint if the anodized aluminum is not cleanable. Polishing
such an expanse of bare aluminum is more than I would want to take on. I
want my trailer to serve me, not me to serve my trailer. JMHO.
Heh heh.
Al
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:52:31 -0800 "Carl Rodgers"
writes:
> Hi Ros I hate to be a naysayer but if it were me I would not even
consider removing the anodizing . I've owned 3 airstreams as well as the
SS we now own and was a member of the Wally Byam Airsteam club for a
number of years.
> I have seen SO MANY airstreams where the clear coat was flaking off and
the roofs and sides of the Streams were nearly black with corrosion and
without the clearcoat on your de-anodized SS you would be polishing on
it continuously. If you do clear coat after you've shined your trailer
I'll bet a dime to a donut that clearcoat will be flaking off within two
years due to the difference in expansion between the aluminum and the
clearcoat.
> I will take my anodized trailer anytime. I'm also pretty sure that
Airstream learned its lesson and is no longer clear coating but is now
anodizing. Is that right Airstreamers??? Carl
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 16:12:18 -0600
From: waymark1@xxxxxxxxxx.com
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] POLISHING
Depends on the climate and where the trailer is parked, temperature,
humidity, air pollution.
Also depends on how shiny you have to have it all the time.
Aluminum will form a thin coating of AlOx (corundum) beginning when the
film of polish is wiped or washed off.
This is the same coating material that anodization produces. The
difference is that when the coating builds up to a microscopic thickness
the oxygen is blocked off and stops further oxidation, while anodizing
continues building the thickness up electrochemically.
Waxing will help make a polishing job last longer. Wax will, though, have
to be removed to re-polish, so it makes repolishing harder.
If you do this, don't try to polish the entire skin before waxing. Do a
small area at a time, from one sheet joint to the next.
It's not stupid to remove anodization and polish, it's just a matter of
what you want to spend your life doing.
Al
On Wed, 14 Jan 2004 13:10:42 -0600 Ros writes:
> I'm not brave but very stupid to consider such a venture. Still, I am
not sure that I will undertake this project - just toying with it.
>
> If I have to re-polish every two or so months, I am not interested.
>
> Ros
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 20:07:40 -0800
From: "WILLIAM SCHMID" <5150-n-flipper@xxxxxxxxxx.com>
Subject: Re: [SilverStreak] 19' Silver Streak
Travis,
If you find some replacements for the SS insignias I am interested in
replacing my broken and faded insignias.
I would like info if you find it.
Thanks, Bill Schmid
----- Original Message -----
From: Travis Pitts
To: Sslist (E-mail)
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2004 7:43 PM
Subject: [SilverStreak] 19' Silver Streak
Hello Folks,
My name is Travis from Marked Tree, AR. I am now a proud new owner of what
I think is a 19' Silver Streak. It is VERY dirty at this time since I just
brought it home. It has been used as a stationary residence for a while so
I don't believe it has had many road miles on it. It was parked under some
trees and has quite a bit of tree sap on it. It seems to come off pretty
easily with Simple Green ( diluted) - I have taken some "Before" pictures
but have not uploaded them to my computer yet. I have a problem though. The
beautiful insignias on the front and rear of the unit are missing. I can
see where they used to be and could make out the "Silver Streak" but not
the model. I believe it to be a 1968 by the "ok to sell in California"
medal on the rear - it starts with 68, but, I cannot find anything on this
beauty to tell me the model ! I am pretty excited about it, I will be
getting the title tomorrow and maybe it will indicate what model it is. In
the mean time maybe someone can give me a hint. Also, since the insignias
are missing ( maybe somebody is counterfeiting SS's) are there any
replacements available?
Thanks,
Travis
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