Re: [SilverStreak] replacing steel piping with copper

[<waymark1@xxxxxxxx>]

Pressure of Liquefied Petroleum Gas (mostly propane) is usually listed in 
"inches water column." For LPG the usual is 11 inches. 
The appliance regulator on the range is supposed to be 10 inches. Generally 
they do not work, though.
However, many portable outdoor LP gas grills use a much higher pressure.

"The industry norm is 15 years before a regulator needs replacement" - 
www.propane101.com/regulators.htm

When replacing a regulator, never install a single stage regulator even if 
such was original equipment. They have been illegal since 1995 for fixed 
piping systems. The LPG piping system in an RV is a "fixed" system. Two-stage 
regulators are mandatory. Single stage regulators are legal only on portable 
appliances and outdoor cooking appliances of no more than 100,000 Btu/hr. 
- ops.dot.gov/regs/small_lp/Chapter9.htm

Black (unplated) iron pipe is the norm for LPG just as for Natural Gas 
(methane). Copper tubing and brass connectors are used only for the risers 
from the underfloor iron pipe up to the appliance.
Codes now require corrugated copper connectors for NG to be coated with 
plastic film due to the possibility of cracking or pinholing. As Eddie 
mentioned, this does not occur with LPG.

Any time a LPG system is opened and reconnected, the joint(s) MUST be leak 
tested. The proper methods are (1) liquid leak detector solution and (2) 
electronic leak tester ("sniffer"). If a substitute solution is used ("soapy 
water") it is imperative that it contain NO ammonia, as ammonia will cause 
cracking of brass valves and fittings.

Every LPG system should have a leak detector just past the regulator.

One not uncommon leak point is the valves of the range top. The valve spools 
are sealed only with a pasty grease. If the range valve(s) is not operated 
occasionally, the grease may dry out and crack, allowing a leak.

Keep in mind that some persons' noses are not sensitive to the telltale chemical 
that is added to LPG.

I still see mentions of using copper tubing between the LPG container and the 
dwelling unit. A few months ago, an LPG supplier told me that they recommend 
removing copper lines and replacing them with special plastic lines. This is 
due to cracking from expansion and contraction, heating and cooling, of the 
tubing over the years. Black iron pipe remains the usual under and inside a 
dwelling space.

Al

-- "Eddie" <Eddie@Huffstetter.com> wrote:

Jason,
A little embarrassed here. I should know the pressure on the LPG system 
lines. I am required to know. But I forget. I think is 5 ounces but could be 
less. Natural gas in your home is pressured at 5 ounces.

Realize the pressure of 5 ounces is less than an inflated party balloon. 
You'd just about have to have a fractured line or one really rusted thru to get 
a leak. Propane is basically dry and clean as far as damage to the inside of any 
piping. Exceptions are rescued coaches with lines exposed to years of weather. 
The steel lines cannot be galvanized as that will cause debris problems for LPG 
and LNG. So the inside of the steel pipe is bare and raw. The outside black paint 
never was more than "barely there".

So just dust off your lines with a stiff brush, nothing more. Liberally keep 
painted with shiny aluminum paint. The paint IS actual aluminum and will soak 
thru dirt, rust, and into threads. Aluminum soon oxidizes, stopping rust very well. 
Everything plant and oil field is painted with aluminum for a reason and it's not 
for the color. So paint the pipes. It will look good and you will feel better.

Think you have a leak? Just mix a 50/50 solution of soap and water. Apply that to 
any suspect joint or bad area and watch for bubbles. Do that after painting because 
the fresh painted pipes reveal all bad or suspect spots. I seriously doubt pipes 
not struck by whatever got under the trailer would need any replacement.
-Eddie-
Houston, TX