The Silver Streak E-mail ListArchive Files[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index] Re: [SilverStreak] axle
Jim, I sent Ann four photo's of one with the axles still chained from the Florida trip, since I have not gotten around to replacing the axle and need it to be moveable. So, still chained after 1,700 miles, I took the picture and sent it to her after the message. The basic problem is that unlike a open frame trailer such as a car trailer, the axle cannot be chained up to anything, since nothing is exposed on a typical travel trailer such as a Silver Streak or Streamline, etc. So how in the world can you keep the axle up, once you have it jacked up until it bottoms simultaneously forcing the adjacent axle down? The solution is in the center hanger which is called a multitude of names. I called it a walking beam because I don't know the proper name, but you know it is the hanger in the center to which one end of each of the springs of each axle hangs. The function is a simple process which tries to keep the trailer smooth on dissimilar surfaces so that the trailer does not jump up and down with every bump or hole. A level ride and an attempt at a more positive control keeping tires in constant contact with payment. So.... I found two ways to keep the axle with no wheel up, force the remaining down, still have full spring action, and avoid the obvious which would be to remove the axle instead of tying it up. Now I am always in a rush, lazy, usually it's hot, or raining, or on the side of the road, or just can't go another inch, so that's the reasons I don't want to pull the axle out, plus YOU NEED THAT AXLE IN PLACE in order to pull a trailer on one axle only. Why? Well you have got to force the remaining axle in a down position, to keep the trailer at the same height as if there were two axles. I digressed so... When you jack up the axle, the center hanger is forced up and will bottom, the opposite end being forced down, will leave a very wide open space between the heavy iron, and the shacked frame. A 2X4 piece of wood angle cut with a saw, axe, your hammer and chisel, or whatever you have so that it has a point sort of like a thick tent peg can be wedge hammered into the now open space. I hammer it so hard, that it really forms a tight fit, but not hard enough to splinter it up. Then you get your good old duct tape and go round and round the whole thing a jillion times. It will keep that chunk of wood in place like you wouldn't believe. Or just go to a hardware store, find a poly bag for about $8 with two chains in it for replacement trailer safety chains, get a couple of grade 8 bolts of 3/8" size 2-1/2 to 3" long, eight 3/8" flat washers (your gonna double up) and four grade 8 nuts so you can jam nut. You'll need a 9/16" box-end/open-end wrench to tighten. The long bolts are so you can bare angle catch the link and be able to just tighten the dickens out of the chain to get all that inevitable slack a chain always seems to have. Let me find the pictures of this last one still chained. I will send them to you. Please send me your email address. Now every one reading this might think.....crazy, why do I care?....I got new tires, I got remote pressure sensors, I just never would care about this or think of any need or doing this. Well, I assure you there are too many scenarios where you could find yourself on three, or even two wheels and cannot stand a 5, 6, 7, 8 hundred dollar towing bill. I like you can name you several places where if you leave your trailer to come back, it may be vandalized, stripped, or even gone. I will not leave my trailer. It always goes with me, no matter what. I am sorry, as usual I am too long with this. -Eddie- Houston, TX
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