Denny644@aol.com wrote:

> The same previous owner who had the fire also removed all the light fixtures
> and interior electrical. I suspect anything up at the ceiling level just got
> toasted. There are wires sticking out of the walls everywhere there used to be
> a fixture. Word has it that this person wanted to "rewire" the trailer. Why?
> no idea. The Univolt is there, there is a 2-breaker 110V sub-panel back in
> the aft linen storage closet. So this shouldn't be any big thing except for
> the wires themselves.
>
> Question: The wire sticking out of the walls is solid copper, 12/2 with
> Ground (romex). Is this stuff ok to use? It seems awfully stiff to work with.
>
> Question: 14/2wg would be easier to work, but would limit me to 15amp
> breakers. is this a serious limitation. (I could always replace the breakers
> with 4 x 15, and run a gallley-only curcuit.
>
> Question: What is used in an original installation?

Denny,
That is probably the original wiring and is fine to reuse. My '68 has aluminum Romex in the walls for both the 12VDC and 115VAC circuits.

> Question: What about GFIs? Withonly 2 circuits at 110v, that should be
> easy. But that leaves the connection to the univolt unprotected. Or do i
> expect the hookup at a campsite to be protected so I don't have to worry about
> it? What is accepted practice?

It doesn't hurt to install a GFI, especially in the kitchen circuit.

> Question: to replace this wire, would I have to remove internal aluminum
> skin panels, and then replace the wire, followed by the panels. Right? Or is
> there any way to snake new wires in between the walls?
>
> Question: for junction boxes and fixture boxes, can i use standard electrical
> fittings (read that: "from the local hardware store" ) or do i have to go to
> an "airstream store".

Standard electrical fittings are fine and is probably what's there now.

You don't need to change anything if you don't want to. And even though the trailer has a 30 amp cord (#10 guage wire with the funky RV plug), you don't need to wire everything in the trailer for that rating. Your little breaker panel should have 15 or 20 amp breakers for the various circuits; my old G.T. has 2, one for the 115VAC, the other feeding the UniVolt. If I add A/C, I'll add a 3rd breaker of a size to match the A/C unit. Although you need a 30 amp cord and 30-amp feed at the campground, your A/C won't require 30 amp wiring. Look at the Web sites for air conditioning and you'll find that most RV A/Cs pull well under 15 amps. The reason for the heavy wiring outside the trailer is to minimize
voltage drop; the last few feet INSIDE the trailer can be quite a bit lighter guage wire.
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