I once read somewhere that sewage was technically 95% pure. Somehow, that's
scant comfort when it comes time to get down and dirty with a dump valve.

I've done two of them. (17' Bambi II and 27' Overlander.) If you are
forced to actually change the dump valve(s), it has been my experience that
some sheet metal removal will be required.

One should not allow this to upset one unduely. The sheet metal is (in my
two examples) belly skin and I don't think that gets a lot of attention at
the concours d'elegance. Flashing aluminum is available at any hardware
store--as are pop rivets and the wherewithal to affix them. These materials
are entirely adequate to repair belly skin.

You may well have to cut some plastic pipe--about 2" OD as I recall. Again,
not to become unduely alarmed. Ordinary straight radiator hose and
worm-drive hose clamps effect satisfactory, long lasting repairs.

Getting to a dump valve is (or was, in my cases) the chore. Once I had the
thing in my grasp, all became relatively easy, if messy.

The previous posts about cleaning out the groove where the blade part of the
valve seats are well taken. If a soggy bit of something is over the groove
when you close the valve (presumably after you've dumped the tank) a bit of
whatever it was will end up in the groove. Over time, the buildup will
cause a leak. If the outlet side of the valve is accessable, a length of
welding rod with a 90 degree bend in it seems to make a good clean-out tool.

Repairing/replacing a dump valve is a chore, but no more than that.
Certainly it's preferable to do it rather than put up with a leaker.

Clark
WA7GGV
27' '70
 

Donald,

Thanks for your input, I'll give the soap/oil a try. I would do just about
anything to not have to get into this job.
Don't worry I won't get my sweet wife any where near this one.
Can the valves be reached any other way than removal of the shroud? How
big of a deal is the removal of the sheet metal?

Thanks
Tom ( solo on this one )
87 Sovering ( Belle the little stinker )